Dong Ding vs Lishan: Two Taiwan Oolongs, Two Different Mountains

Open a bag of Taiwan oolong and you will usually see the same thing: small, tightly rolled green-to-brown pearls. Pour water over them and they slowly unroll into whole leaves. Two names come up more than any other when you start shopping, Dong Ding and Lishan, and they are very different teas that happen to share a shape.

Where they grow

Dong Ding (凍頂, "Frozen Summit") is grown around Lugu in Nantou county, on hills that are fairly low by Taiwan standards, roughly 600 to 800 metres. It is the older of the two famous names and is tied to the traditional style: a medium oxidation, and in the classic version a gentle roast that gives a warm, toasty note.

Lishan (梨山, "Pear Mountain") sits much higher in the central mountains, commonly quoted at around 1,800 to 2,600 metres. Tea grown above about 1,000 metres in Taiwan is called "high mountain" (gaoshan) tea. Cool air, thick mist and a slow growing season are why high-mountain leaves are prized: the plant works slowly, and that tends to show in the cup.

How they taste

Think of it as warm versus bright.

• Dong Ding leans rounded and comforting: roasted nuts, caramel, ripe fruit, a thick feel in the mouth and a long, sweet finish. The more it is roasted, the more toast and the less flower.
• Lishan leans fresh and aromatic: orchid and cream, a cool sweetness and a clean, lifted finish. It is lighter in colour and usually kinder to a first-time oolong drinker.

Neither is "better". They answer different moods: Dong Ding for a cold evening, Lishan for a quiet morning.

How to brew both

Both do best gongfu style in a gaiwan or small pot. Our gongfu brewing guide has the full method; the short version:

• About 4 to 5 g of leaf for every 100 ml of water.
• Water around 90 to 95 °C. Slightly cooler for Lishan if you want to keep the flowers.
• A quick rinse, then a first infusion of around 30 to 40 seconds, and add a few seconds each round.
• Expect many infusions, 6 to 8 is normal, as the pearls open fully.

If you only own a mug, use less leaf and a longer steep, and keep the lid on to hold the aroma.

Which one to buy first

If you like toasty, comforting teas, or you already enjoy roasted oolongs like Da Hong Pao, start with Dong Ding. If you want something floral and fresh, or you are new to oolong, start with Lishan. Both are sold by weight so you can try a small size first, and the whole oolong collection is a good next step.

New to the category? Read oolong explained for the bigger map, and keep the leaves in a sealed, dry container as described in how to store tea.